The Quiet Force Behind Ezo Seafoods – Keiko Takaoka

In this blog I wanted to share some of my admiration for Keiko, the quiet force behind everything at Ezo Seafoods, which has operated in Niseko since 2009 and in Izu since 2015. In particular, I wanted to focus on Keiko's role as head chef over the years, and some of the surprising qualities that make her such an impressive presence in the kitchen.

I say 'quiet force' because Keiko never, ever seeks the limelight. Customers rave about her dishes, and she is certainly happy that her efforts are appreciated, but Keiko is far too pragmatic to spend a second soaking up praise (this is something I have a skill for…).

Anyway, here are several of the qualities that I have observed and am in awe of:

1. Keiko never spends money on high-end knives, frying pans or other kitchen equipment. While she has accumulated a comprehensive collection of pots, pans, strainers, ladles, knives, etc., she has no sentimentality about any of them. She will use them forever unless they break, and when something needs replacing she will just buy it from the home center. She has no interest in the latest gadgets or trends - kitchen utensils exist only on the periphery of her cooking world.

2. Keiko doesn't waste a thing in the kitchen. Whether it's the hardened core of a cabbage or the soft outer skin of an onion, almost nothing edible gets thrown away.* Keiko is thrifty for sure, but more than that, she has a deep knowledge of and respect for produce — a result of growing up on a rice and vegetable farm and being a junior member in the kitchen from a very young age.  This approach of not wasting anything reflects the broader Japanese sensibility of mottainai (too good to waste).

3. Keiko has never cooked from a recipe — or created one. Guests often ask: What is in this sauce? but her first reaction is usually, I don't remember, there are too many ingredients. After pressing her, I am often able to get at least the basic ingredients, but quantities are another matter. Although she enjoys cooking videos, dining out and travel, she has never looked up a recipe or tried to mimic a dish. She will select dishes -- such as paella or acquapazza -- but they are more platforms for her to interpret herself than dishes to be faithfully recreated.

4. Keiko is a culinary engineer. What does that mean, you ask? I can best describe it by what happens when Keiko sits down for a meal at another restaurant. Whatever meal is presented, Keiko will inevitably get to work quietly  reengineering it to suit her tastes. She daintily combines whatever is available -- sauces, condiments or ingredients -- creating something new, or just a bit better (at least in her view). This approach of synthesizing ingredients and culinary influences is at the core of Keiko's cooking world.

5. Keiko’s kitchen is a flavour garden.  In her kitchen, there are always any number of flavour ‘projects’ on the go. For example, she might mature fish fillets in sake, salt and konbu seaweed. After a couple of days, that ripe konbu will be julienned and find its way into a salad rather than being thrown away. She is continually infusing oils with herbs such as rosemary or basil to have on hand for dressings. And if there is any ‘collateral flavour’ created in the course of cooking — such as the prized milky white liquid released by scallops — that too will find its way into something else, creating delicious flavours that are impossible to mimic (and explain).

   Her range of condiments reflects her Japanese cooking roots, but also includes numerous salts, oils, and Indian and Middle Eastern spices, which she uses as deftly as her Japanese staples. Her pantry tells the same story: pasta, Vietnamese glass noodles, couscous, corn grits and more. (Her cooking truly transcends national borders.)

Beyond the cooking, Keiko's leadership skills also deserve attention.

6. She remains calm no matter what the crisis. Keiko can fix almost any problem or 'cooking fail' in the kitchen. While the rest of us throw our hands up in the air, Keiko swings into action seeming to know exactly what is required. When the kitchen is being swamped by new orders and some problem emerges out of the blue threatening to sink the ship, Keiko transforms into a sort of human tornado and is truly fearsome. The rest of us know best to get out of the way and follow orders as we look on with awe and total respect.                                                                                                                                                                                                In 18 years of working together, the only time I have seen her get visibly upset was when one staff member treated another unkindly. (Well, there was that oyster-throwing incident back in 2010, but the less said about that the better.)

7. Keiko loves cleaning. After heading up a staff of 15 and cooking for up to 100 guests, I am often amazed to see her, for example, mopping the back room, wiping dust from ANY AND EVERY SURFACE, sanitizing the refrigerators, etc. She also performs a quick but thorough clean up of rubbish in the vicinity of the shop before starting work. She delegates for sure, and has a 20-point list for staff to follow, but even the efforts of 15 staff are not enough to satisfy our Keiko. She leads by example and no one can match her dedication and energy.

Overall, I would describe Keiko as someone with an extraordinarily refined palate and that rare ability to instantly process and evaluate flavours. She is also fussy, especially when it comes to flavour, presentation, shop cleanliness and hygiene. Cooking to her is something she does naturally and is an extension of her personality - warm and loving, yet delicate and refined. 

Ezo Seafoods has changed considerably over the years. Today in Niseko we operate as a seafood and sushi takeout rather than the full-service restaurant but her influence on the food is probably as strong as ever. 

*(FYI, the cabbage core is finely sliced and mixed with onions and stir fried into a pasta topping).