Japanese and fish — understanding Japan’s fish, sushi and seafood traditions

For many visitors, Japanese seafood culture begins and ends with sushi and sashimi — and of course, these dishes beautifully showcase Japan’s elevated seafood culture.

But sushi is something many of us can enjoy without fully understanding the deeper role fish and seafood play in everyday Japanese life. It tastes delicious, looks beautiful, and feels uniquely Japanese — what more do we need to know?

After living in Japan for over 30 years and working in the seafood industry for more than 15 — speaking daily with fishermen, seafood vendors, and sushi chefs, and even attending the Tokyo Sushi Academy — I’ve had the chance to gain insights into  Japan’s seafood culture that I thought were worth sharing.

In this blog, I’d like to share some of those insights, along with cultural quirks and traditions that show just how deeply seafood permeates Japanese life. If this helps you enjoy your next seafood meal in Japan just a little more, I’ll be happy.

Fat Equals Quality — “Abura”

First of all, the Japanese talk about seafood differently than other people in my experience. In many Western countries, people talk about fish in terms of freshness or size when they assess fish. But in Japan, the talk is very much about the level of the fat content of fish. The higher the level of fattiness, the better the quality. 

From the morning markets in Sapporo, to the sushi counters in Ginza, you frequently hear:

“Abura ga notte iru” — It has fat. 

Most visitors know fatty tuna (Chutoro or Otoro) (that's Otoro in the pic above), but the idea goes far beyond tuna. Hokkaido’s Kinki, for example, is famously rich and prized for its fatty texture. (We offer kinki for sale for guests who wish to enjoy this Hokkaido seafood delicacy).

The degree of fat content is closely tied to seasonality, with specific fish becoming fattier at different times of the year across Japan, such as Katsuo (bonito) in Summer, Sanma (Pacific Saury) in Autumn and Saba (mackerel) in Winter. 

A fish caught out of season may be perfectly fresh, but leaner and less satisfying than when it reaches its seasonal peak. "Abura ga nai" (no fat). Japanese chefs and discerning consumers are mainly interested and are therefore very knowledgeable about this aspect of fish and seafood.

Preservation as Flavor

One would expect that in a country that is so obsessed with seafood the level of freshness would be the gold standard for judging and appreciating seafood. Freshness is of course appreciated in Japan, but I’ve found that Japanese look beyond simple freshness. Perhaps because Japanese have such a long history of seafood consumption, they have developed simple preservation techniques that have taken on a life of their own. A couple of examples include:

• “Kobujime,” where white fish such as Hirame (flounder)  is dabbed with sake and salt and pressed between layers of “konbu” seaweed, which preserves fish for several days and imparts a slight umami to the fish, which is eaten as sashimi.
• “Simesaba” - (photo on left) or vinegared mackerel, where mackerel is marinated in vinegar, ginger, sugar and salt for several hours, imparting a tangy, slightly sweet flavor.

• "Oshizushi" (photo above right) or pressed sushi, where sushi rice and toppings such as mackerel are layered in a wooden mold and firmly pressed and then cut into neat blocks. This was originally developed as a way to preserve fish in Kyoto.

(We offer Shimesaba for sale for guests who wish to enjoy this traditional seafood preparation).

Texture Matters

In my experience running a seafood restaurant and sushi takeaway shop in Niseko with an international clientele, I notice that the differences in preferences of sashimi is quite profound. I don't like to generalize, but Western customers tend to be satisfied with what I call ‘basic’ sashimi - such as tuna, salmon, kingfish and scallop — fish that is basically soft textured. Japanese love all of those, but they also have a taste for fish and shellfish that has widely different textures, such as the almost crunchiness of Whelk, the melty mouthfeel of Botan shrimp, and the creamy texture of milt (cod sperm). People often ask “what is the flavor of these” -- but I find the Japanese appreciation is more about the texture compared to the flavor. 

(For guests visiting our sushi shop in Niseko, we offer several fish and shellfish well known for their texture, including Whelk, Abalone, Surf Clam and Kinki.)

Evidence of the importance of fish to the Japanese abounds in its culture.

Celebrations & Fish in Japan

 

Fugu — The Cult of Pufferfish

Some fish species, such as fugu (pufferfish), enjoy an almost cult-like status in Japan. Many foreigners associate fugu with its poisonous liver, which can be fatal if not properly removed. In Japan, however, strict licensing and preparation standards mean diners consume fugu with confidence. While most restaurants serve a range of fish, Fugu restaurants focus solely on Fugu. The menu is standardized with little variation and consists of around five different preparations of .....Fugu. The best Fugu restaurants can be found in Tokyo’s traditional districts such as Asakusa and Shimonseki at the southern tip of Japan's main island, Honshu.

Returning to the point about texture, fugu is prized less for strong flavour than for its unique silky, slightly chewy texture. Its refined presentation comes from usuzukuri — the technique of slicing the fish extremely thin and arranging it in careful geometric patterns. The skin, often presented at the front of the platter, is also highly valued and considered an essential part of a fugu meal.

Sakana-kun -- Japan's beloved fish expert

Finally, consider the popularity of  “Sakana-kun” (Fish Boy) - a fish geek who appears regularly on TV and in public whose enthusiasm is contagious. At first he comes across as a bit quirky or childish, but you soon realize that he is seriously passionate about everything to do with fish. His popularity with children and adults alike reflects  the broader interest in fish and seafood in Japan, and specifically on Japanese TV. On weekends you can't watch TV without encountering at least one program dedicated to a seafood-related topic, feeding the demand for greater knowledge about....fish and seafood.

As I write, more and more topics that illustrate this obsession Japan has with seafood come to mind. Unagi (grilled eel), Ikejime, fisherman folktales, Hikarimono, Gyotaku fish printing and more. So stay tuned for part 2 of this blog!

By the way, can you guess which fish his hat represents? Let me know next time you are in Niseko for one Oyster Credit! 

James Gallagher

Co-Owner and Founder

Ezo Seafoods (since 2009)